MECHANICAL CHRONOGRAPH IN WRIST WATCHES - ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR AND EFFECTIVE COMPLICATIONS. Therefore, when choosing a similar model, you need to know what important details and characteristics to pay attention to first.
Honestly, hardly anyone uses the chronograph today for its intended purpose - it detects time periods for something important. So the first rule when choosing is exclusively aesthetic - like it or not. Everything else is the details, although they also play a role.
So, let's start with the mechanism. Even if you press the buttons in the order of entertainment, the wheel system still works, so the owner of the watch wants his favorite stopwatch to last for a relatively long time. Regarding - not a reservation. It should be borne in mind that the reaction rate of the person himself is ¼ second. Therefore, all the superchronographs of recent years, detecting hundredths and even thousandths of a second, are beautiful, but completely impractical.
The best among serial chronograph movements to date is the Valjoux 7750. It is not only the most reliable, like the Mercedes motor, but also the most “maintainable”. Having learned what is inside: 7750, its new modifications: 7751/52/53 or the complete SW500 clone from Sellita factory, you just need to check the chronograph for performance. In any case, the chronograph should be worn more often in service than a regular watch, just for prevention.
When the price is high, there is a desire that manufacturers offer something more interesting than the serial caliber. Let's just say: about a chronograph, the cost of which starts with ten thousand dollars, we can talk not only as an object of entertainment, but also as an investment. Chances are high that a watch with a high brand reputation, with an interesting mechanism and a catchy design, having vilified for several years, can be sold again with minimal loss - or even profit.
UP TO 5 THOUSAND DOLLARS
Longines Column Wheel Chronograph
In 2008, Longines introduced the L688.2 chronograph movement. This caliber was developed at the ETA factory for Longines special order. It is distinguished by a burnished column wheel, visible through the transparent back cover, this part is more difficult to manufacture and provides high measurement accuracy. The 39 mm steel case is made in the style of the 1960s.
Mido Multifort Chronograph
The history of the Mido watch brand dates back to 1918. In 2012, the collection was replenished with a series of chronographs in a 44 mm steel case, in which the Bauhaus design is combined with a reliable automatic Mido 1320 caliber based on the Valjoux 7750, supplemented by date and day indicators. The hands and markings of the dial are coated with Superluminova, and the case is water resistant to 100 meters.
Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph
One of the best serial alternatives for the 7750 is the La Joux Perret 8120 chronograph. It has several unusual elements, for example, a date window at the 4.5 o'clock position. Installed in the Capeland collection by Baume & Mercier, this chronograph is complemented by tachymeter scales and a rare telemeter scale. The case is made of polished steel, the strap is made of alligator leather.
UP TO 10 THOUSAND DOLLARS
Breitling chronomat b01
In honor of the 125th anniversary, Breitling introduced the first B01 chronograph movement. It is distinguished by several innovations: a power reserve increased to 70 hours, a column wheel, the presence of a separate date adjustment button. Now, on the basis of the first chronograph, a whole family of manufactory calibers has already appeared, which proves its reliability.
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969
The El Primero movement does not need to be presented once again, it is one of the first chronographs presented at the exhibition in Basel in 1969, as well as the first chronograph operating at a frequency of 36,000 pc / h and capable of measuring intervals up to 1/10 of a second. True, Zenith engineers decided to remove the fraction of a second arrow. But this is still the same classic version in a 42 mm case with blue and gray counters.
Omega Speedmaster '57 Co-Axial
In 2011, Omega introduced the caliber 9300 with a number of important modifications. As the company's specialists assure, now you can press the chronograph buttons in any order - you don’t have to go to the workshop after that. 5 patents were issued for this mechanism, the power reserve is 60 hours. And it is installed in a 41.5 mm Speedmaster case, the design of which exactly repeats the hours that have been on the Moon.
UP TO 20 THOUSAND DOLLARS
Breguet Type XX / Type XXI Flyback- Chronograph
The name of the Type XX collection and the flyback function, that is, the function of instantly returning the hand to its original position without an intermediate stop, are sent back to the time when Breguet was the official supplier of aviation chronographs of the French Air Force. It is on this line that the manufactory “runs through” all its revolutionary technologies.
Girard-perregaux chrono hawk
The GP 3300 chronograph movement with a 46-hour power reserve is an absolute authority among watch connoisseurs. It has been produced since 1994, and today, in addition to watches by Girard-Perregaux itself, limited-edition luxury brand products operate on this “motor”, the output of which does not exceed a hundred exclusive watches a year.
Parmigiani Fleurier Pershing Chronograph
In 2008, the independent watch manufacturer Parmigiani and the Italian shipyard Pershing joined together to produce, probably, the most successful series of chronographs in marine style in history. The models are divided into two series: ordinary chronographs in a steel case of 45 mm and limited collection Pershing 115 in cases of pink gold or palladium.
UP TO 30 THOUSAND DOLLARS
Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Titanio
Fans of this brand, or “paneristy,” as they call themselves, say this: “There are watches, but there is Panerai.” Therefore, deciding to buy an Officine Panerai chronograph, it is impossible to choose any specific one: they all look alike. The advantage of this instance is the caliber P.2004 / 1 with manual winding and an 8-day power reserve.
Rolex Daytona Cosmograph Yellow Gold
In theory, the Daytona Cosmograph is the first thing that comes to mind when the word "chronograph". Since 2000, the third generation of the model has been produced - with a manufactory caliber 4130. 40 mm models differ in price only due to the materials of the case and dial - from classic steel to Rolex Everose Gold's own alloy. Meteorite dials are rare and in demand at auctions.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
This chronograph appeared in the legendary Royal Oak line by Audemars Piguet in 1998 and was equipped with a 2385 caliber, a modified manufacture based on the legendary Frederic Piguet 1185 movement - its other modification was used in Vacheron Constantin Overseas chronographs. Today, this model in the cult octagonal case 41 mm is still the receptacle of one of the best watch movements of the twentieth century.
OVER 40 THOUSAND DOLLARS
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre a Chronographe
Perhaps Jaeger-LeCoultre is the only modern manufactory that has been able to introduce a mass-produced new chronograph system. Created in 2007, the Caliber 380 essentially consists of two mechanisms: a watch and a chronograph, united by a common balance. Each movement has a 50-hour power reserve. And all this "two-winged" design is placed in an elegant case.
Patek Philippe Complications 5170 5170G-001
Patek Philippe’s 29–3535 chronograph caliber, with manual windings, horizontal gear and a column wheel covered with a steel cover, brings us back to the world of classic watchmaking, as it was 150 years ago. The masters did not come up with anything new, but they performed all the traditional nodes and transmissions at such a high level of quality that this mechanism will certainly last hundreds of years.
A. Lange & Sohne Datograph-Flyback
The watch factory A. Lange & Sohne completely, down to the smallest screw, produces watches on the famous platinum ¾, which closes the mechanism on both sides and provides it with better protection against shock and dust. The watchmaker Philippe Dufour often repeats that he considers this particular model with the L951.1 caliber to be the best among chronographs, and in general often sets the Saxon manufactory as an example to the native Swiss.
